In light of my last two sentimental and reflective entries, I have decided to write something a bit cheerier and fast-paced. I have a lot of ground to cover, so hold your horses!
Belfast is a wonderful city. Sometimes it even reminds me of DC- if Capitol Hill and "U" Street had a baby, that child would be Belfast. It is truly a mix of old and new, fast and slow, nice and uh- not so nice. Like DC, it can go from beautiful and historic to dodgy with just the turn of a corner. But none of that stops me from enjoying just walking around the city. I am living in Mount Charles, a beautiful, historic street in Queen's Quarter. It is the childhood home of an Irish poet whose name I can't recall just now. The street is lined with trees with giant, green leaves, and the roofs of the buildings are topped with all different shapes of chimneys like frosting on a cupcake. At night, the street is loud with drunk students walking home, which in an odd way is comforting.
During the day, men in suits and powerhouse women in clacking high heels pace the sidewalk going about their business with the utmost urgency. My window is about 7 feet tall, and I really enjoy just standing up in it and watching the people walk by. When I leave my house and head out to Malone road, there is tiny restaurants dotting the way to the University. Up further is the Lanyon building, which is innately beautiful. Every time I walk by, given the light, it looks different. I carry my camera at all times for when the Lanyon building will strike a perfect pose.
Across from it is the Student's Union, which on Monday nights, is decorated with hundreds of drunk fresher boys, and girls in mini-skirts and high heels. They are waiting to go into one of the many University sponsored bars and clubs. Unbelievable to me, really, since I am a product of a Methodist education. But nevertheless, they line up for a good time. All this is not to say that I am exempt from this activity.
Further down is the Belfast Botanical Gardens, which are both beautiful and accessible. A couple weeks ago there was a sort of bazaar there, where you could taste all sorts of food and drink. I bought this Irish goat's cheese which truly changed my life. It's called Boilie, which is a French word, but made from Irish goats, and covered in Sunflower oil, spices, and peppercorns. While food here in the UK is notoriously awful (yes, so, so, so awful), this is one food that captured my affection. I bought two containers.
If I go down further still, there is Ulster Bank, which is continuously bothersome to me. I still haven't received my account number, and I am awaiting a phone call from the bank-man today. Keep walking and there is what my travel book calls the "Trinity" of student pubs- The Eglantine, The Botanic, and I don't really know what the third is. I haven't been in the Eg yet, but my friends and I are regulars at the Bot. There is live music almost every night and is so close. Across the street is Fisherwick's church, where today, and every Thursday, I eat a free lunch of soup and hot dogs. And because it is free, it is thereby delicious.
Starting at home and flipping around the other direction is Downtown, or as the Euro's prefer "City Center." I keep complaining because "downtown" is literally one of my favorite words in the English language, and I can't use it without sounding like a cliche American. But whatever you call it, there is a lot to be seen and done. The shopping is excellent- two sort of malls, and lots of shops. Victoria Square is stunning- It cost like 300 Million pounds or something like it to build this giant glass dome over an outdoor shopping center. You can climb the dome and look out over the whole of Belfast. Build within the glass are millions of bulbs which change colors from blue to purple. It is really impressive and if anyone comes to visit we will for sure go here.
There are also so many charming Irish pubs its unbelievable. Uncomfortable slanted wooden chairs, old leather booths, the whole nine yards. Then there is The Crown bar which is across from the Europa Hotel, formerly the most bombed hotel in Europe. The Crown was designed for the privacy of its visitors- meaning, there are private booths with doors that close for you and your "mates." I'm told it is because when there was a lot of violence between groups in Belfast, when you came into the pub, you didn't know who else was there, so there was less fighting. When I went, it was with my housemates, and we were the only girls at the establishment. When a booth finally opened up, we made our way in, and were followed by one British man after the other, until there were around 20 people in this stall. They had just flown to Belfast for the evening for a stag party, and were really a lot of fun. It was such a good first experience to have here at the Crown, which I would consider Belfast's main attraction. I will be back for sure soon, most likely at my birthday.
Then of course Belfast City Hall marks the City Center. It is so beautiful, especially lit up at night. A must-see if you are ever here. It is beautiful everyday, but like in DC, when you walk by something everyday that is so beautiful it just becomes part of the landscape, a part of the walk. So I'm pretty thrilled to have beauty as part of my daily routine between the Lanyon Building and City Hall.
In addition to the city, my expectations have been overcome with my courses. Here, I am taking three courses, or "modules." Each consists of two one-hour lectures a week, with a one-hour tutorial. The courses I am taking are 1. The Politics of Deeply Divided Societies 2. Modern Political Thought and 3. The Politics of Irish Literature.
The first course is amazing, and I can't believe how jam-packed they are of information. The professors are so professional, and don't waste your time- not to mention so smart and poised. Everyday, in all my classes, in fact, I say "Oh my, really? Wow." I feel the level of education here is outstanding and I'm looking forward more and more to classes. Modern Political Thought has a very witty and clever lecturer and I think the philosophy part is fascinating.
The Politics of Irish Literature is very in-depth, and I think I will have trouble keeping up. The lecturer is nothing short of genius, and after an hour of hearing her speak I feel as though I need a nap. It's actual politics, not just reading novels. We are discussing texts from anthropological maps, to poetry, to travel guides of the 18th Century. I know I'm already behind some of the others in the class, but I won't drop it because I think there is so much to learn.
Besides classes, there is so much opportunity to participate in clubs. Last night I took part in part of a fencing club, but spent most of the evening rock climbing in the the physical education center. Let me just say that I am in love. I climbed up three times, and got a genuine high- really, I was just thrilled. It's just the challenge and the goal- and tangibly reaching it at the top. Feels so good! I think I will join the club as I had such an amazing experience last night doing that.
There is still so much I haven't seen in my three weeks in Belfast and beyond! This Saturday I am visiting Londonderry. I accidentally registered for a trip for Anthropology majors, but I guess they are letting me attend anyways. We leave at 7 AM on Saturday, then arrive in Derry for a traditional breakfast. We will spend all day in museums, which will be a real treat for me- I have come to discover whirlwind sightseeing isn't for me. A discovery which I will write about in depth later.
Tomorrow morning I will visit the Ulster Museum, which I have wanted to see since I have been here. It is free, and I think absolutely essential to understanding my politics of Irish Literature Course. I will probably bring a pen and paper! I have still to see the murals, the site where the Titanic was built, and Belfast Castle. These are all on my to-do list, among a wealth of other things like homework, bank account, etc. It seems to never end. However, in the midst of all the stress, I am having a great time trying to find up from down.
Before my sign off, just a shout-out to my iPhone and to American Food. I miss you.
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